Before TikTok, before Guitar Hero placements, before iPod ads, and before The O.C., the hopes and dreams of fledgling alt-rock acts lay in the hands of two teenage chuckleheads in Highland, Texas. Debuting in 1993, Beavis and Butt-Head was nominally a crude animated comedy about a pair of horny, headbanging ne’er-do-wells. But in those segments when its titular characters channel-surfed through the station’s latest Buzz Bin offerings, it became America’s most influential outpost of armchair music criticism, capable of turbocharging a band’s Soundscan numbers with a simple “this rules.” And as MTV’s highest-rated show in the mid-’90s, Beavis and Butt-Head also had enough clout to thrust strange, obscure groups into the national spotlight even when they thought they sucked.

“What the hell is this crap?” Butt-Head exclaimed when confronted with Ween’s 1992 single “Push Th’ Little Daisies.” Even in the midst of a ’90s alt-rock boom that encouraged the masses to turn and face the strange, the song was odd, sounding like a nursery rhyme performed by a Casiotone-toting hotel-lounge act fronted by a six-year-old. But perhaps Beavis and Butt-Head’s allergic reaction to the song had as much to do with the fact that, in Ween, they saw an older, funhouse-mirror version of themselves. “Push Th’ Little Daisies” wasn’t just an annoying earworm, but a cautionary tale of what happens when two music- and sex-obsessed young men spend a little too much time on the couch doing mushrooms, cracking themselves up with dirty jokes in their own made-up vernacular.

As big fans of Beavis and Butt-Head, Ween’s Aaron Freeman and Mickey Melchiondo (a.k.a. Gene Ween and Dean Ween) took the critique in stride—after all, “What the hell is this crap?” is a question these childhood friends were used to hearing ever since they forged their home-recording society in New Hope, Pennsylvania, circa 1984. It’s a question that no doubt consumed the unruly crowd at Trenton’s City Gardens in 1991, when the duo performed an infamous opening slot for Fugazi while high on ’shrooms as patrons flung chewing gum in their hair, and it’s likely what prompted a skinhead to punch Melchiondo in the face after a show in Minneapolis in ’89. In fact, “What the hell is this crap?” is precisely the reaction the duo sought to elicit with each and every song they produced, where they variously conjured ’60s-pop sweetness,’70s hard-rock hysterics, and ’80s-funk sleaze using the rudiments of hardcore, pawn-shop electro, and dollar-bin reggae. And as if their music wasn’t confounding enough, the duo also pledged allegiance to an imaginary demon god known as The Boognish, which was like their DIY-doodle version of Iron Maiden’s Eddie.

Beyond the overwhelming stylistic sprawl of 1990’s GodWeenSatan and 1991’s The Pod, Ween were essentially analog-era harbingers of internet brain rot: just as today’s Gen Alpha kids perplex their parents with nonsensical blurtings of “Skibidi Toilet,” “Sigma,” and “Turkish Quandale Dingle,” Ween developed their own inside-joke glossary with recurring shout-outs to “the weasel,” “the Stallion,” and “Eddie Dingle,” creating a world where “brown” isn’t a mere color, but a state of mind. (When Fortnite gamer Tiko went viral in 2020 with his lo-fi irritant “Fishy on Me,” it basically sounded like a trap remix of a Pod outtake.)

But early Ween records were funny because the music they were playing with was inherently funny—they weren’t so much crafting jokes as blowing up familiar cliches until they burst into a puddle of muck. Their formative ethos is best exemplified by the Pod standout “Captain Fantasy,” a burst of glam-metal histrionics and beatbox groove that’s the musical equivalent of a child preening in front of the mirror with a tennis-racket guitar while sporting his mom’s makeup and platform heels—ridiculous and charming in equal measure.

But for all the seeming frivolity of the enterprise, Ween always had serious supporters in their corner: Their first couple of records were released by tastemaking indies TwinTone (former home to the Replacements) and Shimmy-Disc (run by underground figurehead Kramer), with production assistance from Rollins Band bassist Andrew Weiss (whose boss was prone to rapturously sermonizing about the duo’s life-changing powers). And in the post-Nevermind wilds of 1992, the music-industry landscape had been sufficiently upended for a band like Ween to find themselves on Elektra Records. More remarkably, they were allowed to issue a major-label debut, Pure Guava, that pretty much adhered to the same low-budget standards as their anarchic indie releases.

Still, even with the Beavis boost, Pure Guava’s “Push Th’ Little Daisies” felt less like a springboard for future mainstream conquests than a freaky fluke hit poised to join “Punk Rock Girl,” “Debbie Gibson Is Pregnant With My Two-Headed Love Child,” and “Detachable Penis” in the canon of left-field novelty tunes. But with their next album, Ween would have the last laugh. Entering a proper studio for the first time with drummer Claude Coleman Jr. (formerly of TwinTone labelmates Skunk), Ween made the proverbial leap from public-access-show pranksters to ready-for-primetime entertainers.

Chocolate and Cheese’s debrownified presentation revealed to the Boognish-agnostic what the true heads already knew: that when you scraped away the cruddy production and pitch-shifting chicanery that defined their previous records, Ween were undeniable pop songwriters. Though the duo were no strangers to strung-out ballads and dreamy reveries, the goofily titled yet sincerely sung “What Deaner Was Talkin’ About” boasts the most pristine, poignant chorus hook in the entire Ween canon, like a “Here Comes the Sun” for people too bummed to open their drapes.

And while the duo had written a number of cheeky singalongs like “Roses Are Free” before, in this case, the dinky four-track sonics of old give way to a carnivalesque splendor that complements the mischievous glee in Freeman’s voice, yielding their most fully realized fusion of The White Album and The Black Album to date. But arguably, the greatest measure of Ween’s musical and emotional growth appears in the form of Chocolate and Cheese’s lone instrumental: Where “A Tear for Eddie” deploys the sort of chintzy proto-Demarco yacht-rock Muzak the duo previously would’ve used to soundtrack their taco orders, here it serves as the somber backdrop to Melchiondo’s fretboard-wrenching tribute to the late Funkadelic guitarist Eddie Hazel, who had passed away in 1992.

That nod to Hazel reaffirmed what set Ween apart from their early-’90s lo-fi peers: They were the rare American college radio darlings to directly engage with Black music, by reinforcing the spiritual connections between glam rock and funk and psychedelia and electro (a flow chart that the likes of MGMT and Tame Impala still consult to this day). But if their early displays of Prince worship blurred the line between pastiche and parody, Chocolate and Cheese offered their most sincere simulacrums of funk and soul to date. “Freedom of ‘76” wasn’t some winking attempt at Al Green or Marvin Gaye cosplay; it’s a song that’s as smooth and supple as those legends’ greatest hits (albeit updated with Boyz II Men shout-outs and incorrect factoids about B-list ‘80s comedies). And though it may be hard to sing the “boogie-oogie-oogie” hook of “Voodoo Lady” with a straight face, any sense that Ween were kidding around was laid to waste by Melchiondo’s lobotomizing guitar solo, which suggests Southern rock by way of Sonic Youth.

Chocolate and Cheese boasts 16 tracks, but by Ween’s previous CD-stuffing standards, it was a veritable masterclass in judicious editing. A 30th-anniversary reissue released in 2024 unearthed a near-album’s worth of outtakes, but they sound more like holdovers from Ween’s chaotic, weed-clouded past than part of Chocolate and Cheese’s high-definition vision. (That said, the final product still made room for “Candi,” which satisfies the legally mandated requirement for at least one sputtering, broken-drum-machine endurance test on every Ween record.) But even as it made a convincing case for Ween as underappreciated craftsmen, Chocolate and Cheese also doubled down on their reputation as alt-rock’s most flagrant provocateurs.

The album belongs to a more innocent, pre-edgelord era in pop-cultural trolling, when being actively offensive was seen as a noble act of punching up against an uptight boomer establishment, whose Democratic and Republican constituents were finding common cause in blacklisting records. It was the era of peak Howard Stern, of Bill Hicks’ ascendency to alt-comedy sainthood, and Denis Leary playing the Stone Temple Pilots to Hicks’ Nirvana in his MTV-commercial rants. Heck, even a young Radiohead were naming albums after Jerky Boys skits. As a pair of suburban stoners way more interested in food than politics, Ween didn’t project the same sort of outwardly hostile energy as the aforementioned contrarian cranks. But their deceptively affable demeanor meant they could get away with pushing the envelope even further.

While Freeman and Melchiondo would shudder at being labeled “comedy rock,” they approached music-making like a sketch troupe: Every song was its own self-contained absurdist environment, each presenting a new opportunity to reinvent themselves with different sounds, scenarios, and some possibly ill-advised but endearingly executed fake-accented roleplay (see: the mock-Mexican murder ballad “Buenas Tardes Amigos” or the mutant, Middle Eastern metal of “I Can’t Put My Finger On It,” possibly the first only and song ever inspired by the stench of falafel).

And like great comic actors, Ween can convey an entire universe in simple ad-libbed details: On the opening honky-soul swinger “Take Me Away,” Freeman drops in an Elvisesque “thank you” to a smattering of canned applause, and you’re immediately thrust into a sparsely attended supper club somewhere in the Midwest circa 1974, watching some aging and bloated former pop idol desperately trying to stay hip 15 years past his prime; you can practically picture the sweaty overgrown sideburns, unbuttoned dress shirt and dangling bowtie. It’s no coincidence that some of Ween’s most vocal fans are sketch-comedy creators themselves—Mr. Show, Tim and Eric, the South Park guys, and Tenacious D included. (And at a time when the alt-rock world was still grieving the death of Kurt Cobain, Ween dedicated Chocolate and Cheese to the late SCTV great John Candy, who died a month before him.)

But where their past albums were liable to degenerate into giggle fits, Chocolate and Cheese never breaks the fourth wall or winks for the camera. It effectively traps the listener in deeply uncomfortable situations where you’re forced to ask yourself: Should I be laughing at this? The centerpiece ballad, “Baby Bitch,” perfected the acidic Elliott Smith acoustic serenade before Smith had become synonymous with the form, but its wounded heart is wired to a gangsta rap brain. The song catalogs the unresolved resentments that bubble up when your ex resurfaces after you’ve entered a new relationship. But while countless dorm rooms across America have collectively burst into laughter at the sound of Freeman softly singing “fuck you, you stinkin’ ass ho” over dulcet guitar strums, the song is as unflattering a portrait of male insecurity and self-loathing as anything the Afghan Whigs were putting out at the time.

And yet, the experience of stewing in the ugly emotions of “Baby Bitch” is a cakewalk compared to “Spinal Meningitis (Got Me Down),” which could very well be the only rock song ever written from the first-person perspective of a frightened young child about to undergo a painful spinal tap. You could be forgiven for initially thinking the song belongs to that mid-’90s moment in comedy where even terminally ill children were fair game. But the very aspect of the song that might elicit an instinctual snicker (i.e., Freeman’s infantilizing vocal filter) is also the thing that makes it so uniquely unsettling. When he starts to plead “Please don’t let me die,” the song becomes as vivid and grueling a depiction of child suffering as you’re liable to hear in a pop context, and you feel like the most horrible person in the world for ever thinking the song was meant to be funny.

And yet, the experience of trying to stifle your chuckles amid the hospital-bed horrors of “Spinal Meningitis Got Me Down” is nothing compared to the moral crisis that awaits you on “The HIV Song.” It’s a two-minute track whose lyrics amount to two repeated words—and those words happen to be “AIDS” and “HIV.” And they’re set to a festive polka beat, effectively transforming the names of the most devastating and politically fraught infectious disease of the era into a cheery Oktoberfest chant. At a time when prestige AIDS-themed dramas like Philadelphia, And the Band Played On, and Angels in America were being feted on primetime award-show stages, “The HIV Song” was basically a loud fart let loose during a funeral elegy. But as inappropriate as that may seem, the song can also be seen as a natural nervous reaction to unspeakable tragedy. Sure, it’s safe to assume there’s no way Ween could get away with releasing “The HIV Song” today, but its deeply silly response to a deadly serious issue might actually make more sense in the wake of a COVID pandemic where we were repeatedly encouraged to laugh our way through the dark times.

Ultimately, “The HIV Song” was the most extreme manifestation of Chocolate and Cheese’s proudly counterintuitive governing logic. As its title implies, the album was all about mashing things that don’t really belong together—juvenile behavior and lofty ambition, pretty melodies and profane lyrics, humor and horror—all wrapped up in an instantly iconic cover photo where horndog Penthouse Forum fantasy meets WWE pageantry. It was the Sgt. Pepper’s of bad taste, an exemplar of Ween’s eagerness to not just touch the third rail, but hug it like a teddy bear. And if, from a traditional chart-metric perspective, Chocolate and Cheese didn’t immediately turn Ween into the big-ticket rock gods that Rollins correctly predicted they would become back in 1990, it certainly marked the turning point where you could start to realistically entertain such notions.

Eight months after Chocolate and Cheese’s release, Ween found themselves trapped in the middle of what was essentially a live-action version of Beavis and Butt-Head—i.e., sitting on a couch and watching videos on MTV’s dime. The duo was guest-hosting 120 Minutes, and while they didn’t go so far as to shit-talk any bands, they didn’t seem all that excited about the Soul Coughing and Letters to Cleo videos they were being teleprompted to introduce. Maybe they were just baked, but their blasé attitude was also indicative of a growing indifference toward the alternative rock culture with which they were associated. For Ween, to be truly alternative meant completely distancing themselves from anything that could be easily marketed as alternative.

Within a few months, they would hitchhike further down the path opened by Chocolate and Cheese’s cowpoke reprieve “Drifter in the Dark” to cut a bona fide old-school country record with a team of Nashville session pros. A year after that, they made a nautically themed prog-pop concept album that would go on to spawn a nautically themed cartoon empire. By the end of the ‘90s, they were pretty much the only band that could be found on Phish’s setlists and in Limp Bizkit’s CD changer, while the prescient establishment of their Chocodog.net site hastened the expansion of their cult and deepened their mythology by offering up a proto-Bandcamp array of archival material. And even as Ween’s journey turned more turbulent and sporadic in the 21st century, a sizable army of tribute bands rose up to spread the Boognish gospel in their absence. It’s hard to imagine any of that happening without Chocolate and Cheese, the moment when this home-recording project based around a made-up demon deity started to become a genuine religion unto itself. Coming into the record, Ween were in danger of being the next King Missile; coming out, they were the new Grateful Dead.